The Authority SuiteRuck AuthorityKit AuthorityAperture AuthoritySprout AuthorityDrone Authority
The Journal

Building a line.

AllMakingProduction
Stitch and Seam Classes: The ISO and ASTM Reference
Reference

Stitch and Seam Classes: The ISO and ASTM Reference

The full stitch-type and seam-type classification used across apparel production: the six stitch classes (100 to 600), the six ASTM seam classes (SS, LS, BS, FS, EF, OS), and how the two combine to specify a seam on a tech pack.

14 min read
What Does a Technical Designer Do? (vs a Fashion Designer)
Reference

What Does a Technical Designer Do? (vs a Fashion Designer)

The technical designer, the fashion designer, and the pattern maker do three different jobs, and knowing where each one starts and stops keeps you from hiring the wrong person.

9 min read
Tolerances in Apparel Manufacturing
Reference

Tolerances in Apparel Manufacturing

What a tolerance is on a spec sheet, the ranges factories work to, and why the number matters more than founders expect.

11 min read
Points of Measure (POM) Explained, with Standard Charts
Reference

Points of Measure (POM) Explained, with Standard Charts

What a point of measure is, the abbreviations factories use, and how a POM chart is built for a basic top.

12 min read
Pattern Grading Explained: Grade Rules and Size Charts
Reference

Pattern Grading Explained: Grade Rules and Size Charts

How one sample pattern becomes a full size run, what a grade rule specifies, and why grading isn't the same as scaling a photo.

11 min read
MOQ Explained: Minimum Order Quantities for Small Brands
Reference

MOQ Explained: Minimum Order Quantities for Small Brands

What a factory's minimum order quantity covers, why it's set per style and per color, and the levers that bring it down.

11 min read
How to Give Fit Comments a Factory Can Use
How-to · Production

How to Give Fit Comments a Factory Can Use

The three-part formula that turns a fitting-room reaction into a comment a pattern maker can act on, plus the mistakes that send a comment sheet back unread.

9 min read
How to Find a Clothing Manufacturer (US and Overseas)
Reference

How to Find a Clothing Manufacturer (US and Overseas)

The real channels founders use to find a factory, what US and overseas manufacturing cost in time and money, and how to vet a factory before you send a deposit.

12 min read
How to Create a Tech Pack, Step by Step
How-to · Production

How to Create a Tech Pack, Step by Step

The build order that gets a tech pack right the first time, from flat sketch through labeling, with the measurement and stitch data a factory checks against.

16 min read
How to Build a Size Chart From Scratch
Reference

How to Build a Size Chart From Scratch

The three documents a size range needs, how grade rules connect them, and where the numbers come from.

13 min read
The Garment Sampling Process: Proto, Fit, SMS, PP, TOP
Reference

The Garment Sampling Process: Proto, Fit, SMS, PP, TOP

What each garment sampling stage checks, who signs off, and how long the process typically takes before a factory cuts bulk fabric.

11 min read
CMT vs FOB vs Full-Package Production
Reference

CMT vs FOB vs Full-Package Production

What CMT, full-package, and FOB describe, why they aren't three versions of the same thing, and how to tell which production model and pricing term you're being quoted.

11 min read
What Is a Tech Pack? The Complete Guide
Pillar · Production

What Is a Tech Pack? The Complete Guide

The blueprint every clothing brand needs before a factory will touch it, with the sections a factory reads and what happens when one is missing.

14 min read