1x1 Ribbing
alternating single knit and purl columns that pull in to a stretchy elastic ribbing used on cuffs and hems

1x1 ribbing is the most basic rib pattern: single columns of knit stitches alternating with single columns of purl stitches. It shows up on almost every sweater, hat, and sock because it produces a fabric that pulls in on itself and stretches to fit, then springs back. Most patterns teach it right after you can knit and purl, since it uses nothing else.
How it is built
You alternate knit and purl across the row: k1, p1, k1, p1, all the way over. On the return row you work the stitches as they present themselves, knitting the knits and purling the purls, so the same column stays knit or purl on both faces. The one thing beginners miss is moving the yarn: bring it to the front before every purl and to the back before every knit, or you add accidental yarn overs and holes. Because the pattern repeats over two stitches, it needs an even stitch count to come out symmetrical in the round; worked flat, patterns often add one stitch so both edges match.
What the fabric does
The knit columns sit forward and the purl columns sink back, and that vertical pleating is what gives rib its stretch. The fabric contracts widthwise, so a swatch of 1x1 rib measures narrower than the same stitches in stockinette and opens up when pulled. It recovers well, which is why it holds a cuff snug against a wrist or a hem against a hip.
1x1 rib is fully reversible: both sides read as columns of knits and purls, so there is no wrong side. It also lies flat instead of curling, which stockinette does not, making it a clean choice for any edge that would otherwise roll.
What to use it for
Reach for 1x1 rib anywhere you need grip and recovery: sock cuffs, mitten wrists, hat brims, sweater hems, and button bands. It is also the standard for necklines, where the pull-in keeps the opening from gaping. For a band with more visible spring and a bolder column, 2x2 rib is the usual step up; 1x1 stays the tighter, finer-looking option and the one that sits closest to the body.
Why does my 1x1 rib have holes?
The yarn is in the wrong position on a transition. Move it to the front before a purl and to the back before a knit, between the needle tips, not over the top.
Do I need an even number of stitches?
In the round, yes, so the columns line up. Worked flat, many patterns add one stitch so the pattern mirrors at both edges.