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The Cloth Library

Merino Jersey

base layers, tops, dresses

Macro close-up of Merino Jersey, Single jersey knit, showing weave and fibre

Merino jersey is a single jersey knit made from merino wool, a fine breed wool with a fiber diameter low enough (around 17 to 22 microns) to sit against skin without the prickle of coarser wools. Knitted rather than woven, it has clear stockinette columns on the face and looped rows on the back. At 160 to 220 g/m² it is a light-to-mid knit that breathes, wicks moisture, and regulates temperature across a wide range, which is why it dominates technical base layers and travel garments. The wool gives two-way stretch, mostly across the width, with recovery from the fiber's natural crimp.

Like all single jersey, the edges curl: the cut edge rolls toward the face at the top and bottom and toward the back at the sides. Cut on a flat surface, and stabilize shoulder seams and necklines with clear elastic or a strip of fusible knit stay tape so they do not stretch out under the weight of the garment. Handle the cloth without pulling it through the machine, since traction plus tension distorts the loops.

Sew with a ballpoint or stretch needle (75/11) so the tip slides between yarns instead of piercing and breaking them, which prevents laddered holes down a seam. A narrow zigzag, a lightning stitch, or an overlock keeps the seam stretchy so it does not pop when the knit extends. Woolly nylon in the loopers of an overlock adds softness and give at the seam. Merino jersey suits base layers, tops, and dresses. Wash gently and dry flat, because heat and agitation felt the wool and a hot dryer will shrink and thicken the knit.