Gabardine

Gabardine is a tightly woven twill, traditionally worsted wool, though cotton and poly-wool blends are common now. The weave is steep, more upright than a standard twill, which packs the yarns close together and gives the cloth its characteristic fine diagonal rib on the face and a flatter back. Thomas Burberry patented the original waterproofed version in the 1880s for outerwear, and the name has stuck to the weave structure ever since, independent of finish.

The tight construction makes gabardine durable and resistant to wind and light rain even without a coating, while staying smooth enough to tailor cleanly. It holds a crease well, which is why it shows up so often in trousers and military uniforms. It presses easily but scorches or shines under too much heat, so an iron cloth matters. Wool gabardine drapes with some structure but still moves; cotton gabardine is stiffer and closer to a workwear cloth.

Use it for tailored trousers, blazers, trench coats, and anything that needs to hold a sharp line without going stiff like canvas. It takes topstitching well and is a common choice for uniforms and structured outerwear where durability matters as much as appearance.