Cotton Twill

Twill is a weave structure, not a fibre, but "cotton twill" usually means the mid-weight chino-style cloth used for trousers and jackets. The weft thread passes over one or more warp threads and under two or more in a staggered repeat, which builds the diagonal rib you can see and feel on the surface. That structure packs more yarn into the same space than a plain weave, so twill wears longer and shows soil less than a flat cotton at the same weight. Garment-weight cotton twill runs from about 170 g/m² for a lighter shirt-weight twill up to 320 g/m² for heavy workwear and canvas-adjacent jackets.

The diagonal weave gives twill a bit of natural drape and a soft sheen along the rib line, without the stiffness of a plain-woven cotton at the same weight. It presses to a crisp crease, which is why it's the standard for chinos and flat-front trousers. Rigid cotton twill has no stretch and holds its shape well over time; twill blended with a small percentage of elastane trades some of that structure for comfort and recovery, which is common in modern work trousers.

Cotton twill is a reliable choice for chinos, casual trousers, jackets, bags, and uniform garments that need to hold a crease and take repeated wear. It presses and topstitches cleanly, so it suits patterns with visible seam detail. Heavier twill weights need a sturdy needle and can bulk up at seam intersections, the same way denim does.